The John Lobb factory is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the methods developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The collection combines timeless classics with contemporary tweaks. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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